Dining Among Fish
The perfect backdrop for fine dining in HafenCity's newest restaurant
A distinctive restaurant has recently opened at Lohsepark in HafenCity. Claas—designed by Geplan Design under the direction of Michaela Reichwald at their Hamburg office—transforms 400 square metres with a soaring 4.35-metre ceiling into an experience that is both sensual and refined. The 144 seats are distributed across thoughtfully articulated zones. The restaurant's generous proportions presented an acoustic puzzle, solved by an extraordinary 30-metre installation that animates the entire space: 2,600 silvery fish cast from translucent mirror glass, each delicately mouth-blown and individually unique. Together, they form a monumental school frozen mid-motion, as though about to glide into the verdant courtyard beyond—where 80 additional guests can dine al fresco.
A wine collection dominates the expansive entry, where the maître d' greets arriving guests. Bottles glow softly within golden, illuminated tubes. A sleek room divider—composed of articulated black metal panels—elegantly separates the coat check. Structural columns wrapped in thousands of glass scales evoke the silvery sheen of stingray skin. About 20 seats command prime views of chef Claas-Henrik Anklam at work in his 50-square-metre open kitchen, anchored by an Italian designer cooking island. The 20-metre kitchen counter, topped with glazed ceramic elements, dedicates two metres to an ice-chilled seafood display. Equally coveted are the intimate, lavishly appointed alcoves adjacent to the counter, their innovative micro-veneer construction ensuring acoustic privacy. Light-filled fine dining zones throughout encourage guests to savour the restaurant's generous sense of space.
A deep, matte blue anchors the design vocabulary, echoing the kitchen's philosophy of pristine, ocean-fresh fish. It harmonizes with luminous aquamarine accents and cognac-hued leather—materials chosen for authenticity and the honest expression of craft. The herringbone oak parquet is solid and antique-tumbled; the leather ages gracefully; the walls carry a matte lime finish; the terrazzo is cast; every custom-built piece of furniture speaks to precision. The client's defining vision—an eight-metre bar hand-cast in genuine pewter, its surface worn to a velvety, antique-silver patina—embodies this duality: monumental yet ethereal. Seamless bronze mirrors ascend the full height of the room, while seemingly weightless bottles glow throughout, conjuring the atmosphere of another era's gilded elegance. The lighting design, calibrated with remarkable sensitivity, simultaneously enhances the show kitchen's ambiance, provides essential working light for the kitchen staff, and masterfully sculpts the expansive dining room—transforming every corner into a precisely lit stage.
Photography Credits:
Claas/Matthias Stoewer
(Published in CUBE Hamburg 01|24)
